This is a special trip to Russia, because it's been 10 years since my first trip. I came to Saratov in the summer of 2001, a rising senior in college with two years of Russian under my belt. I was lucky enough to have conversation classes in addition to my grammar classes, so I was already comfortable speaking the language. That summer, I absolutely fell in love with this country. When we visited Moscow, I had my picture taken in front of Moscow State University, and declared my intentions to study there for graduate school. I wanted to stay and never go home. Luckily, that feeling left me, and I stayed in the US for grad school (although I *did* study at MGU two years ago, and lived in that building!). But my love of Russia has never faded. In fact, this is my 10th trip. In my passport issued in 2009, I already have four visas.
At the same time, the magic of Russia has worn off a little. It's hard to say if its specifically because I'm immune to the novelty, or if there is in fact less novelty to be had. In 10 years, Russia has changed a lot. In 2002, Saratov did not have any self-service supermarkets, and there weren't enough phone numbers to be had. I shopped at the market, using Russian in every interaction. I used pre-paid dial-up internet cards at home, and visited the internet cafe a lot. The world has changed a lot in general, but I've seen these changes all through the filter of how Russia changes. Today, there are supermarkets and hypermarkets everywhere (I haven't been to Saratov, but I'm certain they're there), and home phones are no longer an issue given the low cost of cell phones. And high-speed internet can be had at home for $20/month or less. Wow, what a country!
Some things will never change, though. As I left the airport in Moscow, I was accosted by at least 20 men offering a taxi. The police came with bullhorns to break up the throngs of people crowding the exit from customs. (OK, this actually made me feel good: I came in through Domodedovo, which had a bombing in this specific arrival hall a few months ago.) I will also always feel like a foreigner. My language skills are to the point where people will believe I grew up speaking Russian, but have lived in America for a long time. Or maybe I grew up in the Baltics. But I will still behave strangely, and can never predict when someone is going to chastise me. Openly, to my face. Yes, that will never change.
Being back in Vladimir has really left me feeling a strong sense of deja vu. I see the ghosts of last summer all over the city, and I know I will see my students from last summer all over the place. There are a few small changes: my apartment has a renovated balcony, there's a new grocery store where a furniture store closed down. But so much is the same, and I get flashbacks of 2010: this is where I sat when I did X, this is where I was when Y happened. It's very refreshing to rely on instinct and memory to get around. At some point I have to relearn the bus numbers, but so far autopilot has been steering me well. The students arrive Sunday, and then I have to turn off my autopilot, so I'm enjoying this while I can.
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